Desquashing squash is my favorite autumnal pastime.

Photo by Silvia Razgova

My quest to escape the sweetness of squash is back—to the heartbreak of Javier, who dreams of vegan pumpkin pie, pasta with butternut sauce, and oven-roasted camotes (sweet potatoes) with butter and flaky salt.

I love turning squash into something that is not.

I’m sorry, squash gods.

I’ve learned to love squash by turning it into a savory canvas and tempering its sweetness with a bright and sharp salsa verde to mask its squashy sweetness. It makes an ideal filling for tacos dorados, especially when gently steamed, which helps it retain a firm texture to bite into. You’ll need toothpicks to secure the ends of the tortillas as you roll them around the squash filling. These tacos are then shallow-fried until crispy and topped with a drizzle of cream, a showering of salty feta, and spoonfuls of a bright salsa verde cruda (raw tomatillo salsa verde).

Be that person; bring tacos to Thanksgiving.

XOXO